Views and News from the Ramparts of Old Jerusalem

Jerusalem ramparts , Photo: David Hyman

Very few visitors to Jerusalem know about the option to circle the Old City walls in a unique fashion, by walking on top of the ramparts. Here is a short update of all the options:

Three entrances to the ramparts are in use : two of them are on both sides of Jaffa Gate and the third is under Damascus gate. All three have a cashier who sells tickets, the price is 16 Shekels for the whole day, meaning that you can walk different parts of the ramparts with one ticket.  All three entrances are poorly signed and need some snooping around to find them, or just ask one of the locals. The three recommended tracks are as follows:

Jaffa Gate south, via the Armenian quarter, Zion gate and ends at Dung gate. The entrance is 150 meters south of Jaffa Gate , from the outer side of the walls!!!  Ascending the ramparts is by a series of steps and ladders, not recommended for those who are scared of heights. Once you reach the top you are rewarded with a great tour of the walls with views of Yemin Moshe and the Sultans pool from one side and rare vistas of back yards of the Armenian quarter. After passing the Mt, Zion Protestant Compound, you arrive at the top of Zion gate. You can either descend or continue to the next gate, Dung gate. This option is great for anyone who is planning to visit the Jewish Quarter, the Kotel and David’s City.

Second option is entering the Ramparts at the northern side of Jaffa Gate, and walking north and east towards Damascus Gate. The Cashier is located  just by the side of the tourist bureau, which is on your left hand side once you enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate. Once again, climbing the walls is a bit of a challenge, the ancient steps are in different heights and sizes, and you should watch your step. Once on top you will enjoy views of Jaffa road, and the new Jerusalem municipality on one side, and views of the Christian  Quarter churches on the other.

Damascus Gate is the third option to enter the ramparts. The cashier is at the lower tier of the gate , in the new visitors’ center that has been developed under the gate. From here you can either walk east or west, and check out views of the Muslim Quarter, and  the historic Rockefeller Museum.

Full day ramparts walk :

If you have a full day for the Old City and you are in the mood for Rampart walking, here is my suggestion: Start at Jaffa gate, walk south and descend at Dung gate, visit the Kotel, then traverse the Old City to Damascus gate. Use your same  ticket for the second entrance via Damascus gate, and walk the ramparts  back to Jaffa gate. This way you have covered seventy percent of the ramparts, visited the Old City and returned to the spot where you entered.

Be aware that last entrance is at 4 PM , but all exits are always open.

I guarantee an enjoyable walk

Yours, David Hyman          www.davidhymanisrael.com

Under King David’s city, the origins of Jerusalem

Jerusalem from Zion gate, Photo-David Hyman

Can you imaging walking through a tunnel carved in stone 27 hundred years ago? and what if this project  was initiated by the orders of the Israelite king Hezekiah? And if I tell you that a passage in the bible describes this tremendous technological achievement, made to redirect the waters of the Gichon source and channel them into the city’s boundaries? And would you believe me if I tell you that an ancient inscription , written in proto-Hebrew letters ,describes the technology used to dig this tunnel?? (II Chronicles 32: 1-8)

This all sounds imaginary,  but all this and more is 100 percent true and can be visited by anyone who tours Jerusalem. All you need is a free afternoon or morning, a flash light, water sandals and a sense of adventure, and you can experience one of Jerusalem’s amazing hidden secrets.

For a decade or so, the site of Ir David (The City of David) was inaccessible, due to security restraints. The Arab neighborhood of Silwan covers the ancient site of the origins of Jerusalem. Every time a cycle of violence evolved , access to the site was too dangerous. Recently things have quietened down, and by creating a series of bypasses, visiting Ir David is safe again.

I recommend visiting in the afternoon, when the sun is rotating westward, and the golden rays are looming over the city walls. Start your tour at the cashier, and secure an entry time slot to the Tunnel. Then make your way to the lookout point on top of the screening room, and check out the outstanding views of Mount of Olives, the village of Silwan, the Kidron Vally and the excavations of the ancient city. Next stop is the 3D movie, which brings the ancient city alive.

Now its time for the underground adventure, but some preparations should be taken: The tunnel was carved as part of the ancient water system, and still carries the waters of the spring, so prepare yourself for wading in a dark, low ceiling, very narrow tunnel, while walking in knee deep cool fresh water. The tunnel is 533 Meters long, and takes about 35 minutes to walk through.

But before walking through the tunnel, you are going to run into another surprise. While descending underground, you will pass by  an even earlier water system, known as Warren’s Shaft. This system  dates back to king David, and is traditionally explained as the water pipe the King’s forces used to enter the Jebusite city, as described in the bible(2 Samuel 5:6-9). While passing by the entrance to the shaft, look down and  try and imagine General Yoav Ben Tzruya, with the king’s mighty men, making their  way up the shaft and into the city walls.

Descending 20 meters lower, you finally reach the water source, the Gichon. This spring flows all year long, and is the reason for the location of ancient Jerusalem. The first step in the water, sends a cold and surprising tremor up your spine…

When you enter the tunnel, the first twenty meters of water are a bit deep, 70 centimeters high, but once you pass this first stage, the water is knee high. You follow the meandering tunnel, and can see and feel the ancient chisel marks on the walls and ceiling. Some places are so low, you need to bend your head, and some of the places the tunnel is narrow, that your shoulders rub on the walls. Using your flash light and your sense of adventure, you will exit the tunnel after about half an hour.

But the adventure is not over, the water arrives at the Siloam (Shiloach) pool, a holy site for the Christians; Siloam is considered  by tradition to be the site of one of  Christ’s miracles, restoring eyesite to a blind man. (John 9: 1-7)

Returning to the Ir David visitors center , can be done either via a very steep hike back through the village or you can ride the shuttle for 5 shekels a person.

Packing List for the Tunnel hike:

- 3 hours minimum for the  visit

- Flash light, water shoes, shorts

- Ready to get your feet and thighs wet

- Stamina and energy for a long descent underground, and a long walk in a dark narrow tunnel

- Enough energy to hike up a steep hill back to the vsitors center, or five shekels for the shuttle

 

But please remember, these preperatrions will allow you a journy back in history, to the times of King David and King Hezekiah. So just imagine that this is a time machine anyone can use – and dive in!!!

David Hyman

www.davidhymanisrael.com