Under King David’s city, the origins of Jerusalem
October 5, 2008
Jerusalem from Zion gate, Photo-David Hyman
Can you imaging walking through a tunnel carved in stone 27 hundred years ago? and what if this project was initiated by the orders of the Israelite king Hezekiah? And if I tell you that a passage in the bible describes this tremendous technological achievement, made to redirect the waters of the Gichon source and channel them into the city’s boundaries? And would you believe me if I tell you that an ancient inscription , written in proto-Hebrew letters ,describes the technology used to dig this tunnel?? (II Chronicles 32: 1-8)
This all sounds imaginary, but all this and more is 100 percent true and can be visited by anyone who tours Jerusalem. All you need is a free afternoon or morning, a flash light, water sandals and a sense of adventure, and you can experience one of Jerusalem’s amazing hidden secrets.
For a decade or so, the site of Ir David (The City of David) was inaccessible, due to security restraints. The Arab neighborhood of Silwan covers the ancient site of the origins of Jerusalem. Every time a cycle of violence evolved , access to the site was too dangerous. Recently things have quietened down, and by creating a series of bypasses, visiting Ir David is safe again.
I recommend visiting in the afternoon, when the sun is rotating westward, and the golden rays are looming over the city walls. Start your tour at the cashier, and secure an entry time slot to the Tunnel. Then make your way to the lookout point on top of the screening room, and check out the outstanding views of Mount of Olives, the village of Silwan, the Kidron Vally and the excavations of the ancient city. Next stop is the 3D movie, which brings the ancient city alive.
Now its time for the underground adventure, but some preparations should be taken: The tunnel was carved as part of the ancient water system, and still carries the waters of the spring, so prepare yourself for wading in a dark, low ceiling, very narrow tunnel, while walking in knee deep cool fresh water. The tunnel is 533 Meters long, and takes about 35 minutes to walk through.
But before walking through the tunnel, you are going to run into another surprise. While descending underground, you will pass by an even earlier water system, known as Warren’s Shaft. This system dates back to king David, and is traditionally explained as the water pipe the King’s forces used to enter the Jebusite city, as described in the bible(2 Samuel 5:6-9). While passing by the entrance to the shaft, look down and try and imagine General Yoav Ben Tzruya, with the king’s mighty men, making their way up the shaft and into the city walls.
Descending 20 meters lower, you finally reach the water source, the Gichon. This spring flows all year long, and is the reason for the location of ancient Jerusalem. The first step in the water, sends a cold and surprising tremor up your spine…
When you enter the tunnel, the first twenty meters of water are a bit deep, 70 centimeters high, but once you pass this first stage, the water is knee high. You follow the meandering tunnel, and can see and feel the ancient chisel marks on the walls and ceiling. Some places are so low, you need to bend your head, and some of the places the tunnel is narrow, that your shoulders rub on the walls. Using your flash light and your sense of adventure, you will exit the tunnel after about half an hour.
But the adventure is not over, the water arrives at the Siloam (Shiloach) pool, a holy site for the Christians; Siloam is considered by tradition to be the site of one of Christ’s miracles, restoring eyesite to a blind man. (John 9: 1-7)
Returning to the Ir David visitors center , can be done either via a very steep hike back through the village or you can ride the shuttle for 5 shekels a person.
Packing List for the Tunnel hike:
- 3 hours minimum for the visit
- Flash light, water shoes, shorts
- Ready to get your feet and thighs wet
- Stamina and energy for a long descent underground, and a long walk in a dark narrow tunnel
- Enough energy to hike up a steep hill back to the vsitors center, or five shekels for the shuttle
But please remember, these preperatrions will allow you a journy back in history, to the times of King David and King Hezekiah. So just imagine that this is a time machine anyone can use – and dive in!!!
David Hyman
